One of the best ways in which fashion conveys identity is through
a knowledge scheme. Identity access through fashion knowledge has
been most notably utilized by queer communities (including both
the LGBT and BDSM communities). Because a queer identity is often
socially unacceptable or illegal and because such an identity is
not written on one's body, queer individuals often turned to fashion
to mark their identity so that only other queer individuals would
recognize the markers. Hanky
codes, the most elaborate of the schemes, uses cloth markers
in different pockets to express what type of sexual play an individual
likes. Throughout history, a wide variety of symbols
have been used to indicate one's sexuality, including pinky rings
(women), right ear earrings (men), green carnations, pink triangles,
and rainbows. Although these symbols are easily recognizable by
other queer individuals, the majority of the population did not
know what they meant. As such, knowledge of the symbolism meant
an understanding of one's sexuality. Without such knowledge, the
symbol is meaningless and just appears innocuous.
Many subcultures use fashion to indicate participation. By wearing
associated symbols, the individual not only links hirself to that
subculture, but also to its values. The public awareness and connotations
of these fashion markers ranges over time and location. Depending
on the viewer's values and recognition of the marker, entirely different
meanings can be derived. Tie-dyed clothing, band t-shirts, black
cloaks, and lip piercings are all examples of markers used by individuals
to associate themselves with a subculture. Often, individuals use
these markers to attract other members of the same subculture. Because
subcultures have certain values, these markers provide a good cue
for individuals seeking to meet strangers with similar interests;
they also provide an appropriate conversation starter. In this way,
fashion operates as a context for people to converge. By recognizing
and responding to the fashion codes, individuals are able to use
knowledge to not only access something about an individual's identity
but to bridge a social gap.
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